Christopher Herot's Weblog: Spectacle Island

As you approach Boston Harbor by water, you pass through an extensive network of islands. For several hundred years, these islands were used and abused as places to keep things the residents did not want nearby, such as exiled Native Americans, newly arrived immigrants, quarantine hospitals and unpleasant industries of varying sorts. Arguably Spectacle Island suffered more than its share, with a horse-rendering plant, a grease-extraction factory and eventually a city dump. Leaking toxic waste and smoldering underground fires forced its complete abandonment in 1959. Fortunately the reconstruction of the Central Artery and Tunnel , the CA/T project a.k.a. the "Big Dig" offered a means to reclaim the island. By covering the old dump with 3.8 million cubic yards of dirt excavated from the new tunnels, the island has been transformed into a beautiful 121-acre park, complete with a public beach, visitor center and cafe, and some spectacular views from what is now the highest elevation in the harbor.

The island is 15 minutes from downtown Boston by boat. During the summer months the Harbor Express high speed ferry leaves every hour from Christopher Columbus Park adjacent to Long Wharf and costs $14 round trip. In theory one can make reservations but the boats are large and there were plenty of seats on a prime weekend in July. Once you are on Spectacle Island, you can take a shuttle to the many of the other islands in the harbor, but check the schedule as making connections requires some planning. Also, on our return trip, the high speed ferry was replaced by a much larger and slower boat, which accommodated everyone wanting the leave the island but took 45 minutes to get back. If you bring your own boat, there is a marina (VHF ch 69).

Spectacle Island has a beach, a visitor center where you can sit on the porch, get a burger from the cafe, and see an exhibit on the islands history and ecology (20,000 plants were re-introduced). There is a network of trails with picnic tables and views of the harbor and neighboring islands. Well worth an afternoon - or an entire day if you want to see several islands.