Why Expensive Wine Tastes Better
Economists Hilke Plassmann, Baba Shiv, Antonio Rangel, and psychologist John O'Doherty have come up with one explanation for why that bottle of Opus One tastes better than the usual Mondavi Cabernet: knowing the wine is expensive increases the activity in the medial orbitofrontal cortex (mOFC) and the rostral anterior cortex (rACC), the areas of the brain that experience pleasure. In a recently published paper, Marketing actions can modulate neural representations of experienced pleasantness, they describe an experiment in which they put 11 Caltech graduate students in a functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) machine and gave them five samples of Cabernet Sauvignon to taste. They were told that the purpose of the study was to measure the effects of degustation time on perceived flavors. Unknown to the students, there were really only three wines, with two of them being offered twice at different prices ($5 became $45 and $10 became $90). Not only did the subjects reports that the more "expensive" wine tasted better, but their MOFC and rACC showed increased blood oxygen levels when presented with those wines. Interestingly, the portions of the brain associated with taste were not affected, suggesting that the mOFC integrates the "bottom up" sensory components with the "top down" expectations, a mechanism similar to the well-known placebo effect.
In the Wall Street Journal Lee Gomes shed some additional light on this topic with some experiments he did at the Home Entertainment Show at CES in Las Vegas. He set up a room with two sound systems, identical except that one system connected the speakers with $2,000 worth of cable from Monster Cable, while the other used ordinary 14-gauge hardware-store cable. Of the 39 people who took the test, 61% preferred the expensive cable. More telling, the audiophiles at the show were more likely to pick the expensive wire, although they found it a just noticeable difference.
It's possible that the wine experiment would have turned out differently if the subjects had been wine experts. The lesson for the rest of us is that it is often possible to get improvements in quality by paying more money it may take an expert to notice the difference, but if we are given good reason to believe we are getting a better product we really will enjoy it more and not just imagine that we are enjoying it.
You can draw your own conclusions as to how this applies to wine, Starbucks, $1,600 handbags, and Harry Cipriani.


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